CUERNAVACA: COLORFUL CURIOSITIES AND FRIDA KAHLO
© Johannes Vande Voorde
Most people visit Cuernavaca to see the palace of Cortés, while the real gem of the city is the museum of art collector Robert Brady. If you like folklore, interior design, history and art: join the Brady Bunch. (Our secret fan club since our visit.)
The main reason for our visit to Cuernavaca was to spend the night before heading back to Mexico City. It was only natural that we would visit the Palace of Cortés while we were there. But early in the morning it was still closed. So we decided to follow the tip the waiter had given us that morning at breakfast. He said there was a special museum just a minute’s walk from the hotel. We didn’t pay much attention to it, because we get tips all the time, but not always for the right reasons. A restaurant is not great because your cousin works there, and a museum is not interesting just because it’s close by.
But instead of waiting, we decided to visit El Museo Robert Brady to kill some time. Spoiler: we stayed there so long that immediately afterwards we had to leave for Mexico City without visiting the Palace of Cortés. I had seen it twice before, so I knew it would be a disappointment after this.
I will leave you with the following facts:
The museum/house used to be a Franciscan monastery, built in the 16th century. Brady made it his home, with many guest rooms.
Among these guests were Josephine Baker, Peggy Guggenheim, John Cage, Octavio Paz and Rita Hayworth
Brady was a collector-decorator who liked to play with color and light
The collection includes art from all over the world, from African tribal art and Oriental furniture to Murano glass and Mexican folklore objects
Frida Kahlo’s Self-Portrait with Monkey is part of the collection, among other big names (Milton Avery, Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, Max Beckmann, Paul Klee,…)
Brady is buried in the garden of the house, along with his two dogs.
A feast for the eyes
If you like minimal design, this may be too much for you. See for yourself:
Gossip galore
El Palacio de Cortés
© Johannes Vande Voorde
There are two reasons to visit the Palace of Cortés. One: the mural by Diego Rivera. Two: the intrigue woven throughout the history of the palace. A brief summary of the historical gossip: Cortés didn’t often stay at the Cuernavaca palace. His wife, Catalina Suarez, lived there, but his relationship with her was a bit awkward. Catalina was related to the governor of Cuba, who had become an enemy of Cortés. Cortés’ marriage had been childless, but he had many children with indigenous women. The most famous is La Malinche, a Nahua woman who became famous for serving as Cortés' interpreter and advisor, helping the conquistadores conquer the Aztec empire. In 1522, Catalina Suárez died under mysterious circumstances. It was rumored that Cortés had killed his wife. The couple had been arguing over his mistress at a banquet. The next day, she was found dead in her bedroom. There was an investigation into her death, and a big scandal surrounding the conquistador. But after that, he was free to marry a woman of higher status.
The gossip is more interesting than the rest of the museum, so this helps spice up the visit. But if you want to see an interior that is far more intriguing, you know where to go.
Needless to say, the waiter’s tip deserved a big tip.
Museo Robert Brady’s website.
