MUXES: THE THIRD GENDER IN OAXACA
© Johannes Vande Voorde
With 16 ethnic groups, the state of Oaxaca is one of the most culturally diverse places in the world. Mexico fans know this means there’s always a party somewhere. And no one celebrates their cultural heritage as colourfully as the muxes, or 'the third gender'. Their home base is Juchitán, known for its exuberant muxe festivities. We visited them in the run-up to the Gran Vela.
Life hasn’t always been a celebration for the muxes. Among the Zapotecs -the original people of Oaxaca- the existence of a third gender was considered normal: there are women and men, and also a gender somewhere in between. After the arrival of the conquistadores and their Catholic faith however, the muxes had to go underground. (The Spanish gave the muxes their title, allegedly derived from mujer - Spanish for ‘woman’.) Catholic intolerance gradually replaced local customs in Mexico, and muxes were no longer accepted.
Fortunately, 2,500 years of cultural distinctiveness can’t be erased that easily. A handful of muxes, including Edgar Cacique, organized the first Vela Intrépida in the 1970s to celebrate the third sex. They named their brave group Las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro (The Real Fearless Danger Seekers).
Edgar Cacique - © Johannes Vande Voorde
"In the beginning, it was really dangerous to come out as a muxe," Edgar recalls. "Many friends of mine got arrested on a regular basis, and spent time in jail. But we just kept going until the authorities couldn't do anything but accept us, especially when the velas started to become very popular in Mexico. We became more and more known thanks to the press, and today muxe festivities are even organized in the United States, in Los Angeles for example.” Velas are festivals that celebrate femininity, with a mix of beauty and dance contests, processions, parties and mass celebrations. “Here in Juchitán there is a mass especially for muxes”, Edgar continues, “and yes, we also go to Communion. We consider this as completely normal, although I realize that it wouldn’t be accepted everywhere. In Puebla, for example, the population is much more conservative, so the third gender stays under the radar there. Or they come to the state of Oaxaca."
Much has changed for muxes in the region since the seventies. We see them everywhere: working in stores, bars and markets. In the restaurant where we eat empanadas, there are three toilets: two unmarked, and one with a sign ‘MUXES’.
A bag full of muxes
Juchitán, a small town in Oaxaca, is the epicenter of the muxe community. A local legend says that the village's patron saint carried a bag of muxes to distribute them evenly throughout Mexico. But the bag tore, and they all landed in Juchitán. Officially, only five percent of the local population is muxe, but in the streets that percentage seems much higher.
Edgar explains: "I read in an article about muxes that the Zapotecs had a matriarchal society, but that's not entirely true. Both men and women worked; they were equal. The men went fishing or worked the land, and the women sold the crops and fish. As a result, they were much more visible in public life than men. This is still true to some extent. Here at the market you will see mostly women, and only few men. Muxes have a strength that is both male and female, so we unite the best of both sexes, even in our work. We are represented in all sectors, and many families lean on the muxe's income. In addition, many people who are gay, queer or bi come to Juchitán because they feel accepted here. Everyone is welcome, but strictly speaking, gays who dress as women are not true muxes. Although I don't actually draw that line myself. The more the merrier." Edgar himself is a hombre varón (a masculine man). He prefers to wear pants and he likes men, but he does have a huipil for the velas.
So what is the definition of a muxe, then?
Edgar: "Well, I don't want to be too narrow, because muxes are about celebrating femininity. Some are born a muxe, others become one later in life. There are muxes who wear the huipil (local female dress), and there are those who wear pants, often with frivolous appliques. Some wear makeup, others do not. As a muxe, you can have a relationship with a man or with a woman. It is not about sexual orientation, we are not male or female, we are muxes, the third gender. People here are happy to have a muxe in the family, because they are known to take good care of their family and the elderly, and they stay with their mother for life."
Edgar laughs. "Most mothers are happy to have a muxe child. They wear their childs’ dresses, because muxes have good taste."
The queen's dance
In the streets we don't see huipiles or pants with embroidery. In this heat, the muxes wear their sweat uniform: shorts, flip flops and crop top. They are easily recognizable by their Adam's apple and the typical hip-swaying way of walking. Some have longer hair, or wear makeup. You usually only see them in muxe dress during the velas.
© Johannes Vande Voorde
At the dance school, muxes are practicing for the dance of the Reina de las Velas (the Queen of the Velas). Strong Enough by Cher blasts from the speakers for the fifth time. The dance school is nothing more than a graveled courtyard. It’s not clear whether the owner of the dance school is also the dance teacher. Slumped in his plastic chair, he shouts obscene comments and directions: that they should shake their asses more or wave their hands. He also gives several suggestions for threesomes.
Angela Marluu - © Johannes Vande Voorde
Again, no muxe wears the traditional dress. "It's way too hot for a huipil, and it takes too much time to get all dressed up," Angela Marluu sighs (33, born Angel Ramirez). She has always been a muxe. "I never knew any different," she says. Whether she feels one hundred percent accepted? "In Juchitán in general, yes, although I would say we are 'tolerated' rather than 'accepted.' I do sometimes get yelled at on the street. But that is not restricted to muxes, is it? Everyone experiences this behaviour sooner or later. Oh well, if that's the worst that can happen, it's not so bad, is it? I don't care one way or the other."
Is she aware that Americans also call Juchitán Hoochie Town? She laughs in surprise. "I hadn't heard that. Tourists sometimes try something with one of us, but nothing happens, mind you. Unless we want them to, of course." She giggles. "Tourists usually come here to party with us. No one is better at partying and working than muxes. In that order."
Expensive makeup
We ask who wants to pose for us in traditional costume, but we only get excuses: 'no time', 'I have to work', 'the makeup costs a lot of money'. Freely translated: 'give me money'. This too is Mexico.
Karla Yatziri - © Johannes Vande Voorde
For a thousand pesos, Karla Yatziri (21) is willing to pose in her outfit the next day. With the flowered skirt and top, and a giant yellow bow in her hair, she garners much admiration from passersby. With a barely audible gracias and humble nod, she answers the many compliments. She talks quietly and very little. About her relationship with a man, and that she doesn't want to get married because she has to take care of her mother hasta su ultima respira (until her last breath). "That wouldn't work if I got married, because a man needs a lot of care, right?" I nod in agreement, and give her the previously negotiated amount. She tells me to give her an extra five hundred for the makeup. When I reply that the thousand pesos is todo incluido, she protests a little more in a soft voice. Then she gets into the mototaxi, pulls in her wide skirt, and makes a regal hand motion as a farewell. No doubt about it: this might be a future vela queen.
© Johannes Vande Voorde
